On running in Naples

Before I can tell you what it is like to run in Naples, I have to first explain something about the Neapolitan ethos. The people of this area have had to tolerate so many foreign rulers, economic crisis, congestion, etc., that they have learned to go with the flow. They accept hardships in life and things they cannot control. I guess the idea is that strong winds cannot break willows.

For example, the way Neapolitans drive. Traffic here is easier to understand if you think of it like water finding a path down a hill. This is why Neapolitans don't really pay much attention to the lines painted on the road. It is often easier to see what other vehicles are doing if you straddle two lanes. And where cars merge, resemblance to lanes of traffic can completely disappear. For instance driving home from work, there is an especially busy on-ramp that provides technically four lanes; three on the highway and one on the ramp. But I have counted herds of up to eight cars across until we sort out the merge.

There is only one important rule when driving, and that is to not touch. Even that statement has to be qualified. For instance, it is impossible to get into and out of some of these parking spots without bumping the car to the front and to the rear. Also, side view mirrors double as 'feelers'. When mirrors hit, this is an indication that our cars are starting to get too close. But for the most part, drivers here try not to run into other cars.

Because of this flow ethos, no one has the right of way. To Americans, this can be disconcerting. When driving into a roundabout, you just sort of push ahead along with everyone else...watch the other cars...take your turn, then squeeze on through. I have found it is not like this in other parts of Europe. When I tried this in Scotland, for example, it seemed to really bother people.

It's easy to see why mopeds are so popular here in Naples. With a moped, you can fit through places that cars just can't. Down the sidewalk for example. The key with a moped (apparently) is to quickly squeeze through narrow spaces in traffic before those spaces disappear. This takes a lot of skill, and you have to drive very fast to accomplish it. There are a few motorcycles, but they are too big to fit through really small openings very effectively.

Because they are so popular, it is not uncommon to see a family of three or four all riding on the same moped. And just as you would expect, they are careful to wear helmets. After all, you can never be too safe.

Also, you would be amazed at how much stuff can be carried on a moped. One day on the highway I saw a man on a moped ahead of me with his leg sticking out at a weird angle. I thought maybe he had a deformity. But when I got closer, I saw he was simply balancing a bag of groceries, which of course you have to do if you are travelling at 50 miles per hour on a busy highway. It is no wonder I feel so at home here. Back in Bellingham, people think its crazy when you do that sort of thing.

Which leads to running. Most Americans think it's dangerous to run off-base. I laugh at that. It is no more dangerous than spinning out of control on an icy mountain road (pay attention Brad and Scott). Running in Naples in some ways is similar to running on a rock seawall like I used to do at Annapolis. You concentrate on the boulders from 5 to 15 feet ahead, continuously looking for the best places to step that approximate your stride. I think it teaches you balance and coordination. Unless you fall. Then it teaches you that running on seawalls is foolish.

Running in Naples is very much like that. Except in Naples, you concentrate a little farther out--perhaps 15 to 30 feet. Much of the stuff around you is static, like light poles, garbage bins, parked vehicles and such. But a lot of it,--the people, cars and mopeds--are moving at various speeds and directions. They are all doing the same thing as I am, which is trying to figure out how to effectively "flow" through the parts that are congested. For pedestrians, it may mean picking their way through cars stuck in traffic. For the mopeds, it may mean winding between people on the sidewalks. For me running, it means both.

So if you ever get to go running in Naples, which I hope you do, my advice is that you watch out for the mopeds.

A humorous look at how Italians fit in with Europe here: http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/italy

On a more serious note, Gayle, Josiah, Elijah and Timothy are currently in the air and en route home. If you are a prayer, please pray for

• Timothy and Elijah as they re-integrate with friends
• Josiah, that he would find full-time work that is a good match for how God has wired him
  
• Gayle, that she will have the courage and strength to apply what God has shown her while in Italy